![]() ![]() The rear brace made little difference to the feel of the ride or the handling. I tried it with and without them (one at a time). When I bought my car, it already had front and rear TRD strut braces. I've done, and been around, a lot of racing and I have witnessed the mess going on the track can make of a road car. It's a long-term keeper, so I don't want to truly thrash it, ever. is producing some and this write-up covers a fair few as well Then there are a number of other braces more intended for track purposes. Much improved lateral stability, more substantial feel over bumps, better communication between car and driver. Result: Known as the "night and day" bracing. Making the whole center chassis move more rigidly So, front left to rear right and vice versa. Workings: Prevent flexing of the main chassis, primarily in the diagonal axis. Mid-brace (TTE brace and then the replica made by MattPerformance) ![]() Its use other than as engine bling is yet to be found. The stock cross-brace in the engine bay already does a lot of this. Workings: prevent either rear strut tower from flexing inwards. ![]() Result: A more "pointy" front end, reacting to steering input quicker and making the front feel a bit more solid. Workings: Prevent either front strut tower from flexing inwards by rigidly binding them together. Here's one for the reference section perhaps then. That's the first time someone's actually asked why. My pre face lift car has the OEM shocks/springs, a front strut brace (supporting the McPherson towers), a Corky/Snelbaard belly brace (basically a stiffer version of the OEM bracket) and Dev´s door spacers (in effect making braces of the doors on the doorlocks).Īny more bracing would for mé be counterproductive. I don´t race my 1ZZ engined car and over here nééd all the ground clearance and conformity I can realistically get. Their opinions, feedback, however valid, should be taken with this caveat if you have the standard engine. This means 180/190+ hp, thus more load, thus need for a stiffer tub. All the extra braces do have their effect but do add weight so if you don´t use the extra rigidity, why bolt it on?Īn extra cross contamination is several owners having a 2ZZ engine or forced induction on the 1ZZ. The standard car is stiff enough to track true for even spirited normal driving and offers good creature comfort.įrom there it is a debatable subject with the personal need/preference being the deciding factor. There is no better really, not even a best. How much you need, what is the sweet spot? What braces ´do´ is give the driver more direct info over what the car is doing. You can brace till you need stiffer springs to compensate for the weight but unless you weld in a cross braced full roll cage, it stays a spyder. Open both doors and you will grasp the fundamental issue versus a fixed roof coachwork: A cabrio like the mk.3 is fundamentally more flexible. To understand the bracing subject the crux is that the MR2 mk.3 is a cabrio. They also have a bit stiffer bracing btw. The Face Lift cars are slightly more so still. It is safer than more neutral till hiher concering speeds and then oversteer. The cars are deliberately set up with initial understeer by Toyota. ![]()
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